The Art Nouveau Era: 1890-1910
Art Nouveau was a decorative arts movement that emerged in the late 19th century and lasted until the First World War. One of its hallmarks was the use of organic and curved forms, often inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, and vines. This aesthetic was applied to a wide range of products, including jewellery. Art Nouveau jewellery often featured natural motifs and flowing lines, and was made from a variety of materials, including precious metals and gemstones. The jewellery was designed to be worn and was considered an integral part of the fashionable attire of the day. Some of the most renowned jewellers of the Art Nouveau era were Louis Comfort Tiffany in America, René Lalique and Henri Vever in France.
Previously, diamonds were the major attraction for jewellery, but during the Art Nouveau movement, they were replaced with more colourful gemstones such as agate, aquamarine, and opal. Baroque pearls were very popular because of their eye-catching size and form. Novel artworks were created using materials such as heated horn and carved ivory.
Enamelling became very popular as well. The plique-à-jour enamelling method enabled light to penetrate through the enamel, imparting transparency to the design.
Diamonds were formerly the most popular gemstones for jewellery, but during the Art Nouveau period, they were supplanted with more colourful gemstones such as agate, aquamarine, and opal. Because of their eye-catching size and shape, Baroque pearls were extremely popular. Materials such as heated horn and carved ivory were used to produce unique artworks.
Enamelling grew in popularity as well. The plique-à-jour enamelling process allowed light to pass through the enamel, giving the design transparency.
Because of its association with wealth, as well as their fragility, Art Nouveau jewellery was as fleeting as the fashion movement itself. They were only worn by a select few, and they were much easier to lay aside and examine as object d'art.
Art Nouveau’s Abrupt End
In the opinion of critics, the search of beauty in craftsmanship and the prioritisation of adornment in Art Nouveau finally led to ornate designs going excessive. It was judged too extravagant, even frivolous. The public had little to no access to works created in the style, resulting in minimal change in how ordinary people regarded art.
Art Nouveau was quickly abandoned before World War I, and was replaced by the simpler designs and greater appeal of Art Deco, which flourished in the 1920s and 1930s during the interwar period.
