The Edwardian Era: 1901-1910
The Edwardian era, which lasted from 1901 to 1910, was a time of great elegance and refinement in jewelry. The style of the era was heavily influenced by the art nouveau movement, which emphasized natural forms and a delicate, ethereal aesthetic. Jewelry of the Edwardian era was characterized by intricate, delicate designs that often featured scrolling foliage, delicate flowers, and romantic motifs. Platinum was the metal of choice, and it was often used to create light and airy pieces that were adorned with diamonds, pearls, and other precious stones. The hallmark of Edwardian jewelry is its attention to detail and craftsmanship, with each piece being a true work of art. Additionally, the fashion of that time period also influenced the jewelry with the trend of wearing long necklaces, which was popular with the high-necked, lace-collared dresses of the era.
18th-century traditions
King Edward's opulent soirees, court presentations, and formal balls encouraged aristocratic families to openly exhibit their material wealth, especially as jewellery was a status symbol at the period.
Many designers of this era were inspired by 18th-century traditions, notably the use of costly stones such as diamonds and pearls in items such as tiaras and necklaces.
Colliers de Chien, or dog collars, were very popular with Queen Alexandra. These were often made with a ribbon and a brooch or as a string of pearls.
Interestingly, in this age, pearls were regarded more expensive than diamonds since good quality, enormous specimens were only accessible from exotic, far-away areas such as Australia and off the coast of Africa and were incredibly rare.
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​Queen Alexandra is wearing a collier de Chien necklace, which is one of her hallmark pieces.
Popular materials
During this time period, Cartier popularized the use of platinum in jewellery. Because platinum is not as malleable as gold, less platinum was required to make a robust setting. This method gave rise to the white-on-white effect, which made the stones appear to float on the wearer's skin.
Pedants
Pendants from this era were often worn by upper society and were made of gold alloy, diamonds, pearls, or platinum. Some are richly ornamented, while others have a simpler and more delicate pattern.
Solitaire and two chains dangling from a centre point are popular patterns. As an alternative to platinum necklaces, white gold alloy was utilised. Pendants in the form of a heart were offered as romantic presents.
Queen Alexandra's choices inspired pendant fashions as well, as her love of Indian jewellery found its way into Edwardian designs.
Brooches
Although Victorian brooches were opulent as well, Edwardian jewellery was more romantic, light, and whimsical. Brooches, whether fashioned of gold, pearls, or diamonds, were worn by both rich socialites and the working class to accessorise their attire.
Earrings
Despite the fact that technology enabled mass manufacturing, craftspeople were still in high demand because to the distinctive jewellery they could make. Earrings, like other items, were frequently embellished with pearls, diamonds, and other valuable stones.
Teardrop earrings (a long string of diamonds frequently terminating with a pearl) and chandelier earrings were popular. These earrings were generally quite feminine in character and were fashioned with grace and beauty in mind.
The Great War and the End of an Era
The opulent lifestyle of the Edwardian era (at least among the middle classes) came to an abrupt end when the First World War began in 1914, rendering raw materials scarce. The value of the jewellery manufactured decreased when platinum was replaced with white-gold alloy. There was also a dramatic decrease in the number of formal events held.
Despite its frivolity, King Edward's reign heralded important developments in fashion and many creative forms as Britain entered a post-industrial society, in sharp contrast to his mother's morally strict rule. Despite his brief reign, Edward remained a popular king whose impact on fashion and art endured long after his death in 1910.