The Victorian Era: 1837-1901
The Victorian era, which lasted from 1837 to 1901, was a time of great creativity and innovation in jewelry design. During this period, new technologies and materials such as electroplating and synthetic gemstones were introduced, which allowed for the mass production of affordable and stylish jewelry. The Victorian era was also marked by a fascination with symbolism and sentimental values, and many pieces of jewelry from this time were designed with specific meanings in mind. Popular motifs included love and fidelity, nature, and the Victorian preoccupation with death and mourning. Victorian jewelry is known for its opulence, with many pieces featuring intricate details and a mix of precious and semi-precious gemstones.
Early Period (1837-1860)
During the early years, Georgian era styles were still visible. Feronnieres, as well as chain or ribbon headpieces with centre diamonds worn on the forehead, were popular.
The Queen's preference for wearing numerous rings inspired ladies of the time to do the same, frequently stacking multiple pieces of jewellery when possible.
Motifs are inspired by the love story of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, with patterns representing friendship, love, nature, family, and happiness. In addition, decorations frequently contain natural components (such as stars, moons, animals, and plants) and beautiful frills (e.g. ribbons, fringes, tassels).
Serpents were particularly popular designs after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria an engagement ring with emerald eyes (her birthstone).
Hair ornaments, brooches, necklaces, and bangles were popular among women. Silver, diamonds, and traditional jewels were the only materials used in jewellery (e.g. garnet, ruby, emerald, amethyst, sapphire, etc.). To complement the pieces, delicate enamel work with glass is also employed.
At the time, both pearls and gold were regarded exceedingly precious. There was no technology to produce pearls back then, and gold from California and South Africa had yet to arrive.
Mid Period (1861 to 1879)
Queen Victoria went into sorrow after Prince Albert died. Her clothes and jewellery were dark, which represented her emotions. Mourning jewellery was popular during this time period. It is also fairly uncommon to weave a loved one's hair into jewellery, particularly those who have died, in order to feel closer to them.
Despite the fact that these items were initially intended for mourning, artisans were able to make stunning jewellery despite the gloomy and sombre designs. Large lockets, as well as brooches, necklaces, and bracelets, were fashionable. Then they were embellished with wreaths, angels, or flowers.
Dark-colored gemstones of choice were deep-red garnet, black onyx, and amethyst. Because of archaeological discoveries during this time period, this period also witnessed Etruscan, Egyptian, and Renaissance influences.
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Although Queen Victoria's mourning initiated the tradition, memorial jewellery became fashionable to honour individuals who perished as a result of industrialization and bad living circumstances in cities.
Late Period (1880 to 1901)
After several decades of mourning, the British began to move on, and this was reflected in their jewellery. Instead of the heavier parts of the mid-Victorian era, producers concentrated on smaller and lighter pieces to meet an active woman's lifestyle. Instead of the hefty bangles and necklaces of the preceding century, delicate rings and bracelets ruled the market.
Motifs now range from humorous to intimidating, with major Aesthetic Movement influences. There are insects, stars, dragons, animals, and flowers, as well as any other pattern that represents romance and good fortune.
Another innovation of the time was the use of tremblers in jewellery to simulate movement and depth as observed in nature. En tremblant designs originated in Paris but were popular in the United Kingdom, particularly with flower and butterfly theme pieces.
During this period, Queen Victoria's son, Prince Edward, and his wife, Princess Alexandra, influenced fashion trends. The dominant style was simple yet refined. Silver and coloured gemstones are appropriate daytime jewellery, whereas diamonds, gold, pearls, or platinum are appropriate evening jewellery.
Foreign influences were still present, but they had expanded to include Oriental motifs, particularly those from Japan.
The Victorian Heritage
Although poverty and instability plagued this century, historians largely believe that Queen Victoria effectively led England into the age of modernity and a period of prosperity for the country, despite the working people not benefiting completely.
During her 63-year reign, Britain's longest reigning former queen initiated a revolution in art, fashion, and jewellery. This period's aesthetic inspirations have withstood the test of time and continue to affect current art forms.